South wind through the kitchen

"From the luxurious pate of truffled goose or duck liver of Alsace to the homely household terrine de campagne, from the assiette de fruits de mer of the expensive sea-food restaurant to the simple little selection of olives, radishes, butter, sliced sausage and egg mayonnaise of the cafe routier, an hors-d'oeuvre is the almost invariable start to the French midday meal."